From Movement guides
Get a grip
Grip is the weakest link in most of your lifting — and one of the most trainable. Why it caps your strength, how the way you hold changes everything up the chain, and how to build it.
Published
by Adarsh Gopal
For something so central to lifting, grip gets almost no thought. It should, because in a lot of movements it’s the thing that quietly decides how much work you actually get done.
Your weakest link
Try to hinge and deadlift and you’re limited by what your hands can hold — the back and legs often have more to give than the fingers do. Hang from a bar or do a pull-up and your grip usually fails long before your upper back gives up. So across a big chunk of training, grip is the ceiling. Everything above it is waiting on your hands.
Which makes it strange that some gyms — one whose name rhymes with insult — ban chalk. You’ve got barbells and heavy plates and pull-up bars, the whole point of which is to let people lift and hang, and then you take away the one cheap thing that lets the hands keep up. Short-sighted.
First, reduce the friction to a good grip
Before you train grip harder, stop leaking it. The simplest fix is dry hands. Chalk (magnesium carbonate) pulls moisture off the palm and, in plain physics terms, raises the static friction between your hand and the bar — less slip, more hold. Use it economically; you don’t need to look like you fell into a flour sack.
If you’re stuck somewhere with corporate no-chalk rules, tools like straps, cobra grips or versagrips do a different job: they route the load past the palms and let the arms and upper back bear it more directly, so you can hold more for longer. Useful when the point of the set is the back or the legs, not the grip itself.
Equipment matters here too. That criss-cross pattern on a good bar is knurl — little projections that grip your skin like blunt thorns. Sharp knurl grips harder but bites over long holds; blunt knurl is comfortable but slips; quality bars land in the middle. (We go deep on how ours is made over on the equipment page.) Cheaper rubber, powder-coat or sleeve finishes help grip and fight rust, but they wear and tear with use.
How you hold changes everything up the chain
There’s more than one way to hold on, and each one reshuffles which muscles do the work all the way up to your spine. Four worth knowing:
- Neutral — palms facing each other, as if you’re about to clap. (Or slap someone on both cheeks at once.)
- Prone — palms facing away, like giving a high ten.
- Supine — palms facing you, like slapping your own forehead when you forget which grip is which.
- Ulnar-deviated — held as if you’re about to crack a whip. An odd one, but it’s been useful to me for building grip and nursing a dodgy elbow.
How you grip an object — and how freely it can rotate in your hand — determines how freely the shoulder can adjust, how much the upper back contributes, how cleanly the elbow bends and straightens under tension, and how the wrist rotates while staying stable. That’s why grip choice matters most in rehab, in avoiding overuse, and when you want a specific muscle to do more of the job. A “simple” push or pull is never just the big muscle; it’s the wrist, elbow, shoulder and spine moving in sync, and the grip sets the terms.
Train it like a capacity
Grip is meant to be the thing that gives out first — that’s the point. Farmer’s carries, hangs, pinch grips (holding a block too wide to wrap your hand around), thick-handled work, nunchuk pull-ups — each loads the forearm a little differently, and each makes the hands the bottleneck on purpose.
And here’s the part I find genuinely fun: once your grip stops being the limit, the movement gets interesting again. The muscles above it now have to work harder because the constraint that was protecting them is gone. The bottleneck just moves up the chain, and everything adapts chasing it. Build the grip, and you don’t just hold more — you unlock all the strength that was sitting behind your hands the whole time.